Week 11

9/15 - 9/17 | Stockholm

My next three days in Stockholm passed in a very relaxed, slow manner, so rather than taking things step-by-step, I’ll point out the highlights.

Stockholm has grown on me. Its large, cosmopolitan nature means it’s rich with art and culture that you may not find in other European cities (for example, I passed a rather large celebration of Iranian culture and heritage—I don’t think I would’ve encountered this in Helsinki). Especially thanks to Sweden’s (former) liberal immigration/refugee policies, a large portion of the population of Stockholm (and Sweden more generally) is not Swedish, and this is actually widely accepted by a fairly color-blind populace. Still, the “downtown” areas of Stockholm are gentrified and expensive, and are mostly inhabited by Swedes and Europeans, while minority groups live in larger communities far outside of town where they’re not seen unless they’re in the city to do business. I can’t help but wonder if, like in the US, there’s an undercurrent of (usually subconscious) racism even amongst a very liberal populace. I’d love to spend more time in Sweden to learn more about how foreigners, both white and nonwhite, integrate into the rather closed-off Swedish communities. It would also likely be hard to observe as a privileged, non-minority, but I think it would be an interesting social experiment nonetheless.

This leads to a broader discussion of Swedish society from a foreign perspective. Unlike in Finland, where the majority of the populace seems socially cold due to a genuine shyness (and if you can break through that thin veil, Finns are generally incredibly friendly), Sweden has a bit more of an arrogance complex around its aloof stereotype. I mean, Swedes are friendly and polite, but they don’t usually ignore you because they’re shy, but rather, because they have no interest in you whatsoever as a stranger. Swedish society (as far as I’m told by a few locals) reflects this lack of close interpersonal relationships—Sweden has the youngest average age among European countries for young people moving out of their homes, and it’s not uncommon to lose touch with your family entirely when you do. Friend circles are almost entirely determined in primary school and university, and Swedes don’t usually socialize outside of these circles. Making new connections in Sweden can often be predicated on “bringing something to the table”, and makes relationships seem incredibly transactional at the start. However, this is contrasted by a deep sense of loyalty and trust built once you are made a part of a community.

Obviously, I’m speaking in stereotypes and from the very limited perspective of a transient tourist who’s only had passing conversations with locals, who also find it easier to speak in generalities. I’ve met a handful of Swedish people whom I’ve connected with easily and without much pretense (mostly abroad). However, I think moving to Sweden would be an incredibly interesting challenge. It requires a healthy balance of respect and disregard for social norms (in order to break into existing social groups and form connections). It requires money (this country is, as advertised, expensive—and paying taxes here can be brutal). It requires a high level of self-confidence and self-reliance, and a comfort with spending time alone (if not moving with a friend or a partner). That being said, to a well-organized life, Swedish society is a bit of a utopia.

I think I need a trip back to Stockholm to solidify my feelings about this place. I’d like to spend a longer trip here, living more like a local and trying to participate in community activities to get a real sense of it.

9/18 - 9/20 | Gothenburg

Gum for scale.

Early on the 18th, I hopped on a train bound south for Gothenburg. As Sweden’s second-largest city, it feels remarkably small, but the people here still undoubtedly give a “big city” vibe (not very open or acknowledging your presence or needs unless specifically prompted). It was quite rainy when I arrived (and all throughout my visit), so the first thing I did was find a cafe famous for its cinnamon buns. But these are not ordinary cinnamon buns. These are size-of-your-chest, stomach-expanding, mega-super-ultra-cinnamon-buns. A single order cost me 10 euros and fed me for 7 days (see pictured). What a welcoming (and incapacitating) welcome to Gothenburg. The rest of my day was not so eventful, as it involved getting lost in the rain. Gothenburg is an industrial city, and it isn’t the most picturesque place to do this, but it was relaxing and fun after a hectic weekend in Stockholm.

The next day I made my way to the city museum, which has on display exhibits from Viking history to the development of Gothenburg as a modern city. It was quite expansive and detailed for what I expected and I enjoyed myself more than I thought I would. I spent more time exploring some of the parks and peripheral areas of the city in the afternoon—it’s apparently quite a popular destination for nature lovers, and this does come through in the abundance of green space.

My final day in Gothenburg was spent mostly at the Universeum, a science museum/zoo in a massive 7-story building near the limits of the city center. This place was wild—everything from sharks to an open aviary to crocodiles to sloths and more. There were also exhibits on space and the human body (which is honestly what I came for), but I quickly became far more interested in the menagerie. At the end of the day, I hiked up the hill at the center of town to watch the sunset from the site of an old castle. Unfortunately for me, my next commitment was a bus ride…starting at 1am and arriving around noon in Hamburg the next day. So I roamed around some of the major nightlife streets of Gothenburg and read a bit in my favorite cafe (Kafe Magasinet) before heading to the bus station to wait for my midnight transport.

I was glad I got to visit a part of Sweden outside of Stockholm, but I think I could’ve chosen something with even more authentic Swedish charm. Gothenburg felt a little too industrial and large-scale to really capture the cultural charm I was looking for. I’m not sure I’d recommend this place to present friends or my future self—there’s not a lot to see or do as a tourist, and there isn’t a strong social community to welcome you there (if you’re not somehow already involved in the Gothenburg social scene).

9/21 - 9/22 | Hamburg

I’m going to cheat a little here and cover my second and final day in Hamburg one week early, for continuity.

I arrived in Hamburg around midday the following day, a bit sore and stiff from the journey. I hopped off my bus and headed to the port district, where I participated in a walking tour through the old harbor and the alternative neighborhood of St. Pauli. Hamburg was once the 3rd largest port in the world, and remains the 3rd largest in Europe, despite the fact that the city is located 100km inland. Its strategic location on the Elbe makes it a valuable port city anyway. I learned some of the history of the city as a major trade center (and saw artifacts of this history like the Elbe tunnel, which allowed thousands of laborers to commute across the river to the industrial area of the city). We then entered St. Pauli and learned a bit more about the more scandalous side of Hamburg, including information about the city’s nightlife, socialist groups, and red-light district. I finished my night off at a rooftop bar to watch a cloudy and disappointing sunset.

The next day I geared up for a tour of the city’s old town, starting at the town hall (it’s really called “Hamburger Rathaus” in German…I will not let this one go). We passed some of the famous churches, including St. Nikolai’s Church (kept in ruins after being firebombed in WWII as a memory of the horrors of war) and ended at St. Michael’s Church, where I took the opportunity to see the city from above once more by ascending the tower. In the afternoon, I found my way to HafenCity, an island at the southern limit of the north side of the city famous for being home to one of the unintentionally expensive buildings in the EU—the Elbphilharmonie (Elphie). Frequent readers (i.e. people who have read literally the above few paragraphs) will know that I’m a sucker for a good view, so I obtained a free ticket for admission to the observation deck and proceeded up to the 9th floor to have a look around the harbor. It was quite windy, but the sun was starting to stream through the clouds over the shipyard and it was quite pretty. I also spent some time wandering through the heart of the city and discovered some amazing cinnamon buns.

I spent my evening poking around the harbor for a bit and then heading back to St. Pauli for the Reeperbahn (Rope Street) festival. Germans really love their rock and techno music, and this festival was no exception—from outdoor arenas to private-entrance bars and clubs, these kinds of musicians were everywhere and the city was quite alive. It was fun to watch so many enthusiastic people sway together in the streets. Earlier than usual, I was struck by a wave of fatigue and unexpected back pain, so I called an early night to prepare for my subsequent journey to the Netherlands.

Hamburg was much dirtier and rougher than I expected, especially coming from Scandinavia. My feelings on Germany were polarized strongly by Berlin, and I (seemingly mistakenly) thought that the other major cities of the country would be more utopian than they actually appear to be. Although there’s a large nightlife scene and lots of young people, I’m not sure I’d like to live in Hamburg. The social scene seems to be a bit too caught up in partying and going out (which is fun for me every once in a while, but not all the time). In addition, making friends in Germany seems to pose the same problems as in Sweden, and I fear I’d feel alone for quite a while before finally being accepted into local communities. But let’s wait and see what Munich and Bavaria have to offer before I make a final verdict.