Week 16
10/20 - 10/22 | Lisbon
My long voyage ends where all voyages begin; on the coast. Nina and I landed in Lisbon in the evening, and we went for a walk down the main street of the Baixa and found delicious seafood at a (probably very touristy) restaurant. We tucked under an umbrella to avoid the drizzle, watched people, and listened to street performers on the slippery white cobblestones. I then left Nina and explored some of the nightlife of the city on a pub crawl through Barrio Alto with the hostel I stayed in the last time I was in the city.
Our tour the next morning led us up and down the many hills of Lisbon, into parts of Barrio Alto, through the Baixa, and down the winding passageways of Alfama before finishing on a beautiful overlook of the city. Our guide Gui was incredible; knowledgeable, funny, and 100% authentic Portuguese, he answered everything we asked about and more with a good sense of humor and a refreshing directness. Nina and I then meandered our way to the Thieves' Market (only open on Saturdays) before getting caught in a spot of rain and needing to purchase an umbrella on the spot. Fortunately, we were in Portugal and a big umbrella cost us 5 euros (at least $25 in NYC).
As the rain let up, we met my sister and her boyfriend for some green wine at a very hole-in-the-wall bar recommended by Gui owned by a very friendly Brazilian man named Ceasar. We then bar-hopped for a bit before heading to a Mexican restaurant where my sister had made reservations for dinner, followed by some more bar-hopping before Nina went home and Marley, Harry, and I continued the night on another pub crawl. I had an amazing evening, coming home from Club Urban (a fantastic venue on the water outside of Barrio Alto) soaked by a midnight thunderstorm at 3 in the morning.
I was woken far too early the next morning to join my family for brunch, and I sleepily agreed. After some food, we took a taxi out to Belem to see the eponymous tower and sample the famous Pastel de Belem, made according to a secret recipe passed down for generations and from which the Pastel de Nata originates. Though not very different from a well-made Pastel de Nata, it was incredibly crispy on the outside and quite delicious. Not too long afterward, I crashed hard, and with the basic sightseeing done, I excused myself to take a long afternoon nap. I woke to Nina having cooked dinner at home and then explored some more of Barrio Alto later that night.
I have an affinity for Lisbon. I've loved the city every time I've visited; like Copenhagen, I just feel at home there. I recognize it's a bit problematic for me as a rich, American nomad to want to move here at this point (over-tourism and especially over-immigration have really displaced Portuguese locals both spatially and economically, and this effect is especially pronounced in the capital), but when I do, I will try to do it in a culturally-sensitive and beneficial way. Regardless, I know I will be back here.
10/23 - 10/24 | Porto
The next morning, Nina and I took the train up to Porto. Marley met us there and walked us through the main center of town; through Bolhao market, across the massive bridge, and down the hill into Gaia. This is not my first rodeo in Porto, but even less so for my mom who's lived there for a month, and my sister for over a year now. Marley left Nina and I to do some work in the afternoon, and we reconvened for dinner and a walk around town. Rain began to set in and gave us an early night, though I was tasked with ferrying some goods from Marley's old apartment to Nina's new one. I love family.
The next day, Nina and I surprised Marley by taking her way outside of town for a tattoo appointment. Good thing too, as my good luck with the weather finally ran out and the rain was coming down in sheets. After the inking, Marley returned home to do some work, and Nina and I met a former tour guide of ours for a cup of coffee and the thickest chocolate mousse I've ever had at a rooftop cafe called Bad Habits. With the rain mostly stopped (and our feet mostly soaked), we treated Marley to dinner at her favorite restaurant: a 10-seater called Genuino with a weekly rotating seasonal menu. The chocolate mousse here was also quite good, milkier and lighter, but with a sprinkling of sea salt that made it mouth-watering. After dinner, Nina went home and Marley and I enjoyed our last night in Porto at one of her favorite bars, Candelabro; we were even joined by a small group we had met in Lisbon.
Porto is cute, but it's not my favorite city. It's a little too quiet, too old, and too rainy for my liking. There's beautiful architecture (arguably more beautiful than Lisbon), stunning viewpoints (including the bridge, the nearby Jardim de Morro, the Ribiera), and lots of relaxing tourist activities (from wine tours to river cruises to quaint restaurants), but I don't see myself making a home here. Funny enough, Nina feels a much stronger connection with this place, and it explains the differences in our dispositions quite well. Overall, I prefer something more exciting, with more to see and do and with more people to meet. But as far as Portuguese cities go, it's very worthy of a visit. And by necessity, I'll be back to see my family soon.
10/25 | London
Fitting that my final stop of this grand tour is where it began (and perhaps where the next chapter will begin): London.
I landed early in the morning and, after dropping my things near King's Cross, spent it on a DIY tour through some of the main tourist attractions in the area: Platform 9 3/4, St. Paul's, The Globe, Borough Market, and Trafalgar Square. I then met for a walking tour of Westminster and continued my string of sights with the iconic phone booths, Downing Street, Westminster Abbey, Big Ben, and Buckingham Palace.
In the evening, I walked over to Soho and found dinner, passed theaters on the West End, art installations on Tottenham Court Road and in Oxford Circus, and joined in with a crowd of street performers dancing the macarena. I was dazzled by the vibrance and the energy of the city on a Wednesday night, and I couldn't think of a more fitting send-off for this long and equally spectacular adventure.
I've said it before and I'll say it again, I love London. As I walked shoulder-to-shoulder through the crowded streets near Leicester Square at 9pm, I was simultaneously frustrated with slow walkers and so happy that I felt as if I were back home in NYC. Combined with its unique European flair, its rich history, its abundance of cultural opportunities, interesting people, and hidden gems, I'm warming back up to the idea of settling here, at least for a while (visas and work permitting).
Finally though, I will be heading home (for one month) to figure out what comes next. Stay tuned for a potential Christmas tour through Central Europe and Scandinavia. Or maybe more nomad diaries as I backpack my way across the continent. Who knows. Who cares? Till then, I'm going to take the phone off the hook and disappear for a while. See you in the next one.
