Week 13

9/30 - 10/1 | Stavanger

My next stop was a small coastal town in southwestern Norway—Stavanger. My trip started out eventfully, and not in a good way. I flew from Copenhagen through Oslo…but my bag full of my clothes did not. Instead, I was trapped in the freezing rain but nothing with the insufficient jacket and t-shirt I had worn on the plane. Naturally, my first stop was Zara so I could warm up.

I then set out to explore the main sights of the town, which only took a couple of hours. The most iconic place in Stavanger is arguably the “Color Street”, which is filled with rainbow-painted wooden buildings housing bars and restaurants. Little flags, lanterns, and Christmas lights are strung along (though I’m told there are many more at Christmas time), and it makes for a very picturesque part of the old fishing town. The local businesses complete the cozy, home-y vibe. The bars have books and board games, couches, and big warm containers of liquid that flow all night. There’s actually a considerably larger nightlife scene here than I would have anticipated, though it is largely dominated by young (18-20 year old) Norwegians.

The heart of Stavanger is filled with similarly-architected wooden buildings, though most are painted white. Combined with the twisted cobblestone streets and the fishing equipment lying about, it’s almost like Greece, albeit with a distinctly Nordic twist. There’s not a whole lot to do here, but it’s quaint and quiet and surprisingly beautiful, even in the frequent rainstorms that besiege the city (especially in the fall and spring).

I planned on making a long hike up to the famous Preikistolen, or Pulpit Rock. Due to the rain, however, I was advised that the 4-hour hike would be a miserable experience with a disappointing payoff (a view obscured by clouds). Instead of hiking, I took the chance to explore some of the museums and outskirts of Stavanger, including roaming around a reconstructed Iron Age Viking farm and the botanical gardens. Like Bergen, this town feels immersed in its nature.

But there are also some things to see in town as well. Outside of the Norwegian Petroleum Museum, there’s an old industrial park with a fascinating set of punk art sculptures. Along the streets, there are beautiful murals about science, art, and society. And of course, because this is Scandinavia, there’s a 4-story library constructed of glass and steel, filled with plants and books, and even with a movie theater.

Stavanger was a needed breath of fresh air among my trips to big cities. I’ll certainly be back, if not just to experience the nature at a more pleasant time of year, but perhaps also for a countryside escape from life in the busier part of Scandinavia.

10/2 - 10/3 | Oslo

My second trip to Oslo left me with a much better impression of the city than my first. I was here approximately one year ago, and I remember being disappointed by the lack of classical architecture, Norwegian coolness, and a general sense of sleepiness that seemed to blanket the town. Coming back a second time and fueled by nostalgia and my experiences in the other Nordic capitals, my opinion has reversed almost completely.

After an early-morning arrival (I took the night train), I took a generic walking tour of the city because I had forgotten a lot since my last visit. Happily, I made a couple of friends on the tour, and we went exploring afterward. From the town hall (which looks eerily Soviet with its glorification of the working class and quasi-religious imagery) to the fortress (whose surrounding gardens are a beautiful place for a walk) to the Opera (which has large, slanting walls that you can climb on—it’s meant to resemble an iceberg on which people “penguins” waddle around in the cold), we saw some of the major sights of the city that morning and afternoon. We also stumbled into the main library (near the Opera), which gives Oodi a run for its money in terms of the variety of things to do (it also has 3D printers, video games, cafes, etc.) and in terms of scale. Along the way, we sat down for lunch in one of the oldest squares in the city, and I tried the famous Norwegian fish soup (which actually contains a lot more seafood than just fish). A little too creamy for my liking, but not inedible.

Oslo is nicknamed the “Tiger City” because it used to be a rough, port town, full of rowdy and dangerous sailors. It’s now quite cleaned up and, though not as historic and picturesque as Helsinki, still has its charming streets. One of my favorite features of Oslo is the preponderance of statues and sculptures in public spaces. Everything from important historical figures like FDR and Henrik Ibsen to anonymous children playing, there’s always a good foreground subject for photos in public spaces in Oslo thanks to these statues.

In the evening, I joined my newfound friends at SALT, one of the largest saunas in the city located in the harbor. Though not quite the same experience as in Finland, I still enjoyed my spa day. Next time, I’ll prefer one of the private pods nearby along the water—these smaller saunas are a bit more relaxing and authentic (SALT is attached to a restaurant and event venue…though I missed the Taylor Swift DJ night on October 21). We finished the night at a 4-story bar called Kulturhuset, though (due to it being a Monday evening) it was completely dead. Last time I was here, I also came on a rainy weekday and didn’t get to see much. I’ll have to return on a weekend to get the proper experience.

I woke up early the next morning and joined my friend Jenni in roaming around the Vigeland sculpture park and making ridiculous poses with the weird statues. Certainly the highlight of my day. Tip: don’t come to this place if you don’t like feeling uncomfortable. There are a lot of recurring themes in Vigeland’s work, and they include: violence towards children, naked people, and man-sized lizards. But if you enjoy a bit of eccentricity, this park has both beautiful landscapes and quirky sculptures to keep you entertained.

We then headed back downtown to take a cruise out onto the Oslofjord. This was no sailboat, it was a massive, electric catamaran. Our nearly silent voyage along the fjord was quite peaceful. We saw lots of traditional Norwegian houses on the islands surrounding Oslo—red houses were historically inhabited by the poor, working class, while yellow, green/blue, and white houses were reserved for those with more money. It was a nice, brisk way to spend the morning.

At this point, I took to exploring Oslo on my own. I wandered over into Grunerlokka, the bohemian and artistic district of the city. I had Norwegian waffles and the best coffee in the country (Tim Wendelboe) and also wandered past eclectic art sculptures and chandeliers that are features of the bars and nightclubs dotted along the river. I then made my way back into the center of town for some Scandinavian pastries and to watch a spectacular orange sunset from atop the Opera.

Later that evening, I went to a bar that advertised salsa dancing. I had low expectations given my past experiences of weeknight nightlife in Oslo, but this bar was filled to the brim with loud music and people dancing. Though I’m still heavily out of practice, I danced as best I could and stayed out a few hours later than I intended because of it. But I was happy with this decision.

As I mentioned, Oslo has grown on me. I felt a different kind of energy in the air this time around—perhaps it was just nostalgia, but I felt much more connected to this place than I did before. I think I’d happily live here, at least for a little while, which isn’t something I would’ve said the first time around. In either case, I’ll certainly be back.

10/4 - 10/5 | Berlin

Redemption is a theme this week, and Berlin is no exception. This is also my second time in Germany’s capital, and it has also been a much better visit than my first. After flying in from Oslo, I headed to the center of town where I met a New York salsa friend, Gina, for some coffee and some exploration. We wandered around Mitte and talked, browsed flea markets, took pictures, and of course, danced an honorary salsa song. From the Berlin Cathedral to museum island to the famous TV tower, we got a good look at all the famous sights of the city before Gina had to catch her train back home.

The highlight of my evening was returning to my favorite club in Berlin—teledisko gold. Branded as the “world’s tiniest club”, this unassuming phone booth on RAW Strasse is almost missed among the skate parks, bars, and graffiti of this East Berlin neighborhood. But it should not be, it is truly a singular experience. Complete with adjustable lights, a fog machine, and optional video recording, it’s worth the 2 euro entry fee many times over.

My second day in Berlin started off on a bit of a disappointing note—my communism and socialism tour didn’t attract enough of a showing, and so instead I walked along on a general city walking tour (which I had done last time I was in Berlin). This was a massive undertaking—a three-and-a-half-hour experience led by my guide Xavier through the many chapters of Berlin’s storied history. Although I was exhausted by the end, I was also impressed by the scale and history of the city (albeit a little intimidated by its size—it’s considerably larger than Paris or New York and as a result takes a long time to get from one place to another). Also, walking through many of the neighborhoods, I got the eerie sense that I was back in New York just from the energy of the streets. Between cheap food places open 24/7, fancy bars in repurposed buildings, and a grunge aesthetic that embraces dirt and chaos, there are a lot of similarities between Berlin and its American counterpart. With this in mind, I began to like the city a whole lot more, not in spite of its imperfections, but for them.

In the afternoon, I met my friend Elena to explore the Khroma Art Center. I thought that this would be a simple light exhibit like Artechouse, but it’s actually a collection of many installations of interactive art by dozens of artists. Some of the cooler pieces reflect you, the subject, making you feel like the Wizard of Oz (albeit one that makes Demogorgon noises when speaking into the microphone). Some of the more disturbing ones include a skull dripping ferromagnetic fluid from its mouth. Fun for the whole family.

We then sat down at a nearby bar and caught up—like New York, there were tons of hole-in-the-wall places with cozy, hip vibes littered around the neighborhood. Aside from the large number of smokers, I really liked this setting, and I felt like I was at home for the first time in Berlin. Like New York, there’s really something for everyone in this city; it’s not just a place for edgy, punk-and-techno-loving audiophiles who have more tattoos and shorter hair than I do.

Berlin now appeals to me in a way I didn’t expect it to. For all of its roughness and disorganization, after seeing how it parallels NYC, I can actually see myself living in this city quite vividly. Given my love for New York and my sense of familiarity with the US, it might not be somewhere I settle for a length of time, but it’s actually pretty high on my list of places to return to live in. The fact that I now have a handful of friends in the city is a serendipitous bonus incentive.