Week 14
10/6 - 10/8 | Munich
Welcome to Bavaria, the richest and proudest state in Germany. Munich was not exactly what I expected given all this hype, though. It’s quite a large city and has all of the less-than-ideal detractions that come along with a bustling population: overtourism and crowding in the historic areas, homelessness, dirtiness (especially the preponderance of smoking and discarded cigarette butts), and a lack of an authentic, local feel. I arrived in time for an afternoon walking tour to learn a bit of the history of the place (originally founded by monks, hence its name) and to see some of the major sights (the Cathedral, St. Peter’s Church, the main square, the open market, and of course, the most famous biergarten in town: Hofbrauhaus).
Later that evening, I met up with someone I met through my hostel to sample local cuisine at the famous Hofbrauhaus, but there were so many people there that we didn’t even receive a menu 30 minutes after being seated. We walked out in hanger and protest and instead ordered some apple strudel (with much more efficient service) at a restaurant nearby before calling an early night. While Hofbrauhaus was nice to look at from the inside, I later learned that the food and drink is only average, and that we got the full experience by sitting in the restaurant for a little bit. Perfect.
The next morning, Rose and I (and a new friend, Hao) met again for a walk through the English Gardens. This large park is famous as a local recreation spot, especially for “river surfing”, which was happening even in October. We admired the wetsuit-clad Germans (some of whom were quite good at riding the waves) and enjoyed some beer and pretzels beneath the Chinese Tower, complete, of course, with a live band playing German music. An interesting, but entertaining mix of cultures. I spent the afternoon visiting some of the famous churches and roaming around downtown, trying to get a better feel for the city. I’m sad to say I still didn’t feel a strong sense of connection here. Even the most beautiful buildings and streets didn’t give me the sense of charm I feel in Budapest or Copenhagen. And while I didn’t not like Munich, I struggle to see myself falling in love with the city in the way I have with New York.
My Saturday evening, however, was much more exciting. After a random Google search, I found a Taylor Swift club night (I learned there that it was one of the first, if not the first, of its kind in town). Unsure of whether or not it would be an empty bust or a lively party, I made my way out of the center of town to a club on the outskirts…and danced the night away. This was every bit as good as the events I’ve been to in New York, and there was a lively crowd to boot. There’s no better reason to stay up to 5am than to dress up like hipsters… (etc.).
My final day in Munich began after noon (owing to my antics the night prior), and I made my way to the Deustches Museum, which is an interactive science museum on an island in the river. I really enjoyed the exhibit on atomic physics, which had displays allowing you to conduct the double slit experiment, detailed explanations of the structure of atoms, and even a small cloud chamber (that alas didn’t come out on camera). There were also massive halls filled with trains and planes, though I skipped these portions of the museum in favor of the hard science sections, which were more to my interest. In the evening I wandered back into town to visit the Residenz Royal Palace, but I unfortunately missed last entry and instead just explored the gardens a little bit. I then caught sunset from atop St. Peter’s Church, after climbing up a very narrow, 306-step medieval staircase. Unlike some of my other European destinations, the skyline of Munich doesn’t disappoint. It made for a good memory to end my stay on.
10/9 | Salzburg
I made a one-day stop for old time’s sake in Salzburg on my way to Vienna. The first play I ever acted in was The Sound of Music, and I couldn’t simply train through this historic city with that bit on my resume. After dropping my bags at my hostel, I immediately set off for the major tourist attraction in Salzburg: the fortress. Located on a hill overlooking the city and the Alps, the towers boast gorgeous vistas of the countryside (you can see all the way to Germany on a clear day from the fortress walls). This old building was built and inhabited by Catholic bishops and used to control the town, where wealth flowed from its prolific salt mines. Certainly the best part, though, is admiring the view through the windows and passageways. A gorgeous building in a gorgeous place.
After descending (via funicular, the hike up to the fortress is intense), I explored the main streets of the old town and visited the abbey, a few of the churches, and wandered through the open-air markets in the main square (serving overpriced and low-quality pretzels, but still fun to look at). After getting lost a bit, I wandered back across the river towards the Mirabelle Palace and gardens, which I played around in for a few minutes before heading to the bus stop for the true reason I had come to this city: a Sound of Music bus tour.
My guide Brigita was dressed in full festive garb, like she had walked out of the movie. We drove around town and discussed some of the filming locations set in the city, and then made our way out to the Austrian countryside to see such sights as: the 16-going-on-17 gazebo, the lake the children swim in, the church Maria and the Captain are married in, and of course, incredible vistas of the mountains and lakes.
In between stops, we watched documentaries and listened to songs from the movie, occasionally singing along (though my bus wasn’t the most enthusiastic bunch). We finished our tour in the Mirabelle Palace Gardens, which is also from the movie (during Do Re Mi, the children parade through several locations here). I roamed around town a little bit more at twilight, but it started to rain so I returned to my hostel. There, there was a screening of the film du jour, and I wound up playing cards with a multinational group in the bar until far past when I should have gone to sleep, given my early morning train the next day. All’s well that ends well!
10/10 - 10/11 | Vienna
Vienna is yet again a redemption story for me, though less of a strong one than my previous tales. Aesthetically, architecturally, and aspirationally, I love this city. It’s imperial and grand and majestic in a way that other European cities struggle to even approach. But it also feels like it’s missing something to me. As I was suggested by a (converted) local, perhaps it’s because the cold, distant Viennese culture doesn’t quite match my own personal predilections.
After dropping my bags, I partook in an important Viennese tradition—pastry eating. I then headed towards the center of the historical district for a walking tour, since I had forgotten a lot of the city’s history since my last visit. From the opera to the cathedral to the numerous palaces that fill the city, walking through the streets of Vienna really is the equivalent of walking through an incredibly well-preserved museum. This city is truly gorgeous.
I indulged in some more pastries and visited a couple of the city’s iconic cafes in the afternoon, taking in the ambiance and trying to fall in love with the energy of the streets. As I mentioned, it felt like there was a certain je ne sais quoi that was absent, no matter how many times I queued Vienna by Billy Joel to accompany my sightseeing.
The next day, I spent my morning wandering around the butterfly gardens, the Spanish Riding School, the University, and a few of the city’s outdoor attractions. I sampled some of the famously-terrible Sacher cake (it’s far too dry and you need a generous serving of accompanying whipped cream to really enjoy it) and sat for a while by the water and watched boats go by. Sunset was spectacular, and I even ventured north of the river to explore the city from a new (for me) perspective later that evening.
Overall I’m left with conflicted feelings about this place. I like it, but I want to love it. I feel like I belong here on paper, but not in person. I’m determined to give it some more time, particularly to explore some of the nightlife and the energy of the city on a weekend, but my hopes are sadly somewhat diminished on my return visit. Vienna [still] waits for me.
